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You are here: Home / Chablis / Alice and Olivier de Moor, Le Vendangeur Masqué, Chablis 2010

Alice and Olivier de Moor, Le Vendangeur Masqué, Chablis 2010

 

Somehow this wine manages to be both orthodox and quirky. Like the Pope in pants.

It has all the hallmark traits of a traditional Chablis – oyster shells, crisp dry acidity and pristine minerality. However some left of centre practices in the vineyard result in interesting characteristics in the bottle – like honeysuckle and soft textured fruit – that set the de Moors apart from the flock.

The secret to this unusual play of acidity and richness is the sum of a hundred good decisions. Unlike many traditional Chablis, the de Moors work every step of the way by hand. No herbicides, insecticides or systemic fungicides used in the growing and sulphur used very sparingly in the winery.

‘Natural’ Chablis… an oxymoron in itself.

Admittedly the de Moors don’t have the grandest vineyards in the region, which is certainly not a prerequisite for this site. In fact it’s often the exact opposite. But drinking this wine tells you the de Moors have that special talent for extracting more flavor from a vineyard than it’s expected to deliver. The wine is simply delicious and has a length of palate on par with many a Premier Cru vineyard.

It’s a philosophical outlook that allows the grapes to develop a unique personality and expression of place while staying true to their roots.

:::BON:::

B = Biodynamic: cynics think it’s voodoo but this is basically holistic farming that uses manures and composts to improve soil life and the interaction of the vines with their environment.

O = Organic: farming without the use of inputs that can have adverse effects. ‘Non-systemic’ fungicides and pesticides are used in place of ‘systemic’ chemicals said to enter the ‘blood’ of a plant (akin to antibiotics in the human world).

N = Natural: no additives or aids (eg yeast, yeast food, added acid/enzymes/tannin) bar a touch of sulphur during aging or before bottling, if any at all.

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